Post by ldmrt on May 26, 2006 1:36:29 GMT -5
I received an e-mail from somebody inquiring about running the Upsalquitch River(access points, dangers etc) so I thought I would post my reply here as well. After reading about the upper nashwaak and miramichi reports, the dangers I have described are are a walk in the park but here's my email anyway:
Glad to hear that you are thinking of running the upsalquitch river. I think it is unsurpassed in it's beauty and quietness. I think the best way to run the river is the northwest branch because it is the easiest to run. there are no rapids as on the SE branch, which I think have to be portaged/walked through(to the best of my knowledge as I've only ran this branch once about 12 years ago and that was what we did so we wouldn't wreck our fibreglass canoe).
as far as an access point for the NW branch, it depends on how far you wish to run. If you want to put in at the 10 mile, the most convenient way is to go in by mount carleton through Saint Quentin. The road are in good shape and farely well marked because of the crown reserve water. This is also where the fish fence is located. I think it goes in the water around the 1st of June.
if you want to run from the 25 mile area, the roads are also good except for the last half mile or so, where it is just a little goat trail and you will have to haul your boats and gear to the river, either by manpower or ATV(I recommend the ATV if you have access to one because that half mile seems endless with a loaded canoe. But if you want to run from the 25 mile area, let me know and I can email you a simple map that is fool proof to follow. It was lent to me by a guy who works for DFO. You take the White's brook road(I'm hoping that you know where that is if you are familiar with the area, it's by the big catholic church in St. Jean Baptiste on Rt. 17) But you will have to check when the fish fence goes in because you will have to portage about a mile of water to get around it and they can be a suspicious bunch that work there, with good reason considering the amount of salmon that are there in the summer(which is amazing to see).
As far as hazards on the river, there is really only two places I can think of. There is one turn that has an amazing whirlpool in it, which is hard to navigate. there is a huge row pile of old dead trees on the right hand side and the river is narrow and it sends you right into the trees. we usually haul out there either to camp or to walk around it(you can lower the boat around by rope from the beach and beat most of the pull before getting back in.) We did that last spring but the water was high and even when we got back in the boat, it swung us end for end twice before we were able to get away from it. However it is better than it has been because there used to be a big pile of trees in the middle of this that you had to navigate, but that was gone last spring. This is located about 3.5 mile, not far upriver from Legacy's bridge. There are usually a few warning signs in the trees as well.
From 3 mile down the hills get steeper and the river speeds up and there are a few wavy places where the river gets narrower. Watch for the ledge on the right hand side because the river gets really shallow. It's not too much of a worry right now because the river is still at a decent level. It's more of a concern in the summer.
The trip from 10 mile to the forks is about 4 hours, depending on the water levels. It's pretty good right now. If it's cold, I would recommend staying there, there's enough beds to sleep 8 and there is usually lots of wood to burn in the stove. The camp gets nice and toasty warm and there's an outhouse too. Crooked Rapids is not much further down though and there are a few campsites there but not usually too much wood.
the rest of the way down is not too eventful except for boland brook falls(rapids). They are at a level right now that is tricky to judge. A little higher, they are almost flat, but a little lower, and the waves are huge. Stay to the right hand side, unless you have a few dare devils in your group. However, I wouldn't recommend going past the middle of the river though.
The next spot that might cause concern is what we call the falls, it is at the tail end of the village of Upsalquitch. Its just another set of rapids, but almost nobody goes through them unless it is the high water of spring because there is just no water. However if you do want to do it(it's the only way to reach the rafting grounds and the Restigouche) stay to the left then the middle. You really have to know how to read your water here. After that there is only really where the restigouche and upsalquitch meet that you have to worry about. it can be a bit choppy there, but not that bad, a few boats have flipped here.
I only have one word of advice, there are no organized campgrounds here like on the restigouche. If you want to camp, make sure you choose a beach with plenty of drift wood, please don't cut down any trees from the bank of the river. Also bring a good first aid kit. If something were to happen, you are miles from anybody and there are not many people along the upper reaches of the river. The only access points for cars are at Legacy's bridge, crooked rapids and then the two fishing camps, Two Brooks Lodge, and Boland brook.
as far as renting canoes, Arpins is in Kedgewick(www.canoerestigouche.ca) or leblanc's rentals in Campbellton. Arpins will drive you to the river and pick you up but I think they can be pricey for the shuttle service. Leblanc's doesn't offer a shuttle service(or I don't think they do, I haven't rented in over 10 years) but you can rent a trailer if you have a truck to haul it. I think their trailers have a spot for gear as well. One good thing is that there aren't many people on the river yet, so you won't have a problem getting a reservation right now.
If you don't want to go all the way to the Rafting grounds, please feel free to pull out on my beach in Upsalquitch. It is right after the car bridge and on the right hand bank. Cell phones have reception from right after the boland brook falls to call someone to pick you up if you have that option.
Linda
Glad to hear that you are thinking of running the upsalquitch river. I think it is unsurpassed in it's beauty and quietness. I think the best way to run the river is the northwest branch because it is the easiest to run. there are no rapids as on the SE branch, which I think have to be portaged/walked through(to the best of my knowledge as I've only ran this branch once about 12 years ago and that was what we did so we wouldn't wreck our fibreglass canoe).
as far as an access point for the NW branch, it depends on how far you wish to run. If you want to put in at the 10 mile, the most convenient way is to go in by mount carleton through Saint Quentin. The road are in good shape and farely well marked because of the crown reserve water. This is also where the fish fence is located. I think it goes in the water around the 1st of June.
if you want to run from the 25 mile area, the roads are also good except for the last half mile or so, where it is just a little goat trail and you will have to haul your boats and gear to the river, either by manpower or ATV(I recommend the ATV if you have access to one because that half mile seems endless with a loaded canoe. But if you want to run from the 25 mile area, let me know and I can email you a simple map that is fool proof to follow. It was lent to me by a guy who works for DFO. You take the White's brook road(I'm hoping that you know where that is if you are familiar with the area, it's by the big catholic church in St. Jean Baptiste on Rt. 17) But you will have to check when the fish fence goes in because you will have to portage about a mile of water to get around it and they can be a suspicious bunch that work there, with good reason considering the amount of salmon that are there in the summer(which is amazing to see).
As far as hazards on the river, there is really only two places I can think of. There is one turn that has an amazing whirlpool in it, which is hard to navigate. there is a huge row pile of old dead trees on the right hand side and the river is narrow and it sends you right into the trees. we usually haul out there either to camp or to walk around it(you can lower the boat around by rope from the beach and beat most of the pull before getting back in.) We did that last spring but the water was high and even when we got back in the boat, it swung us end for end twice before we were able to get away from it. However it is better than it has been because there used to be a big pile of trees in the middle of this that you had to navigate, but that was gone last spring. This is located about 3.5 mile, not far upriver from Legacy's bridge. There are usually a few warning signs in the trees as well.
From 3 mile down the hills get steeper and the river speeds up and there are a few wavy places where the river gets narrower. Watch for the ledge on the right hand side because the river gets really shallow. It's not too much of a worry right now because the river is still at a decent level. It's more of a concern in the summer.
The trip from 10 mile to the forks is about 4 hours, depending on the water levels. It's pretty good right now. If it's cold, I would recommend staying there, there's enough beds to sleep 8 and there is usually lots of wood to burn in the stove. The camp gets nice and toasty warm and there's an outhouse too. Crooked Rapids is not much further down though and there are a few campsites there but not usually too much wood.
the rest of the way down is not too eventful except for boland brook falls(rapids). They are at a level right now that is tricky to judge. A little higher, they are almost flat, but a little lower, and the waves are huge. Stay to the right hand side, unless you have a few dare devils in your group. However, I wouldn't recommend going past the middle of the river though.
The next spot that might cause concern is what we call the falls, it is at the tail end of the village of Upsalquitch. Its just another set of rapids, but almost nobody goes through them unless it is the high water of spring because there is just no water. However if you do want to do it(it's the only way to reach the rafting grounds and the Restigouche) stay to the left then the middle. You really have to know how to read your water here. After that there is only really where the restigouche and upsalquitch meet that you have to worry about. it can be a bit choppy there, but not that bad, a few boats have flipped here.
I only have one word of advice, there are no organized campgrounds here like on the restigouche. If you want to camp, make sure you choose a beach with plenty of drift wood, please don't cut down any trees from the bank of the river. Also bring a good first aid kit. If something were to happen, you are miles from anybody and there are not many people along the upper reaches of the river. The only access points for cars are at Legacy's bridge, crooked rapids and then the two fishing camps, Two Brooks Lodge, and Boland brook.
as far as renting canoes, Arpins is in Kedgewick(www.canoerestigouche.ca) or leblanc's rentals in Campbellton. Arpins will drive you to the river and pick you up but I think they can be pricey for the shuttle service. Leblanc's doesn't offer a shuttle service(or I don't think they do, I haven't rented in over 10 years) but you can rent a trailer if you have a truck to haul it. I think their trailers have a spot for gear as well. One good thing is that there aren't many people on the river yet, so you won't have a problem getting a reservation right now.
If you don't want to go all the way to the Rafting grounds, please feel free to pull out on my beach in Upsalquitch. It is right after the car bridge and on the right hand bank. Cell phones have reception from right after the boland brook falls to call someone to pick you up if you have that option.
Linda